:root{--ink:#2d211b;--muted:#66757a;--paper:#f7f0e3;--white:#fff;--accent:#b45d35;--sand:#e2b45d;--line:rgba(16,35,41,.13);--shadow:0 22px 70px rgba(11,32,40,.10)}
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.feature{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1.45fr .8fr;gap:18px}.feature-big,.feature-small{border-radius:30px;overflow:hidden;position:relative;min-height:530px;background-size:cover;background-position:center}.feature-side{display:grid;grid-template-rows:1fr 1fr;gap:18px}.feature-small{min-height:0}.feature-big:after,.feature-small:after{content:"";position:absolute;inset:0;background:linear-gradient(180deg,transparent 35%,rgba(0,0,0,.74))}.feature-copy{position:absolute;z-index:2;left:28px;right:28px;bottom:26px;color:#fff}.feature-copy h3{font-family:Georgia,serif;font-weight:500;font-size:34px;line-height:1;margin:6px 0}.feature-copy p{color:rgba(255,255,255,.74);font-size:14px}
.dark{background:var(--ink);color:#fff}.dark .section-head p{color:rgba(255,255,255,.62)}.dark .eyebrow{color:#f3c979}.food-card{background:#3c2b23;border-color:rgba(255,255,255,.08)}.food-card .card-body p{color:rgba(255,255,255,.63)}.food-card .meta{color:#f3c979}
.story-grid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1.1fr .9fr .9fr;gap:16px}.story{min-height:390px;border-radius:28px;padding:26px;display:flex;align-items:flex-end;color:#fff;background-size:cover;background-position:center;position:relative;overflow:hidden}.story:after{content:"";position:absolute;inset:0;background:linear-gradient(180deg,rgba(0,0,0,.04),rgba(0,0,0,.78))}.story>div{position:relative;z-index:2}.story h3{font-family:Georgia,serif;font-size:32px;font-weight:500;line-height:1;margin:6px 0 8px}.story p{font-size:14px;color:rgba(255,255,255,.73)}
.map-preview{height:520px;border-radius:28px;overflow:hidden;border:1px solid var(--line);box-shadow:var(--shadow)}#map{height:100%}.leaflet-popup-content-wrapper{border-radius:16px}.map-popup strong{font-size:14px}.map-popup a{color:var(--accent);font-weight:800}
.quick{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(4,1fr);gap:10px}.quick>div{background:#fff;border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:18px;padding:18px}.quick b{display:block;font-size:12px;color:var(--muted);text-transform:uppercase;letter-spacing:.08em}.quick span{display:block;margin-top:6px;font-weight:850}
.page-hero{padding:145px 0 50px}.page-hero h1{font-family:Georgia,serif;font-size:clamp(52px,8vw,100px);font-weight:500;letter-spacing:-.055em;line-height:.94;margin:10px 0 16px}.page-hero p{max-width:760px;color:var(--muted);font-size:18px}.article-hero{height:min(68vh,720px);border-radius:30px;overflow:hidden}.article-hero img{height:100%;object-fit:cover}.article-layout{display:grid;grid-template-columns:minmax(0,1fr) 320px;gap:50px;align-items:start}.prose{font-family:Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif;font-size:19px;color:#2a383b}.prose h2{font-family:Inter,sans-serif;font-size:28px;letter-spacing:-.03em;margin:45px 0 14px;color:var(--ink)}.prose p{margin:0 0 21px}.sidebar{position:sticky;top:100px}.factbox{background:#fff;border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:22px;padding:20px}.factbox h3{margin:0 0 14px}.factrow{padding:11px 0;border-top:1px solid var(--line)}.factrow:first-of-type{border-top:0}.factrow b{display:block;font-size:11px;color:var(--muted);text-transform:uppercase;letter-spacing:.08em}.factrow span{font-weight:800}.gallery{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1.3fr .7fr .7fr;grid-template-rows:240px 240px;gap:10px;margin:35px 0}.gallery img{height:100%;object-fit:cover;border-radius:18px}.gallery img:first-child{grid-row:1/3}.gallery img:last-child{grid-column:2/4}.route{border-left:2px solid var(--line);margin-left:10px}.route-step{position:relative;padding:0 0 28px 28px}.route-step:before{content:"";position:absolute;left:-7px;top:5px;width:12px;height:12px;border-radius:50%;background:var(--accent);box-shadow:0 0 0 5px var(--paper)}.route-step b{font-size:12px;color:var(--accent)}.route-step h3{margin:3px 0}.route-step p{margin:0;color:var(--muted)}.note{border-left:4px solid var(--accent);background:#fff;border-radius:0 18px 18px 0;padding:18px 20px;margin:28px 0}.sourcebox{font-size:13px;color:var(--muted);border-top:1px solid var(--line);padding-top:18px;margin-top:38px}
.footer{padding:52px 0 70px;border-top:1px solid var(--line)}.footer-grid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1.4fr repeat(3,.7fr);gap:25px}.footer h3{font-family:Georgia,serif;font-size:36px;font-weight:500;margin:0}.footer h4{margin:0 0 10px;font-size:13px}.footer a,.footer p{display:block;font-size:13px;color:var(--muted);margin:6px 0}.credit{font-size:11px;color:var(--muted);margin-top:25px}.bottom-nav{display:none}
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@media(prefers-reduced-motion:reduce){*{scroll-behavior:auto!important;transition:none!important}}